LATEST TRICKS: Lakefront Chicago

Chicago, Illinois
September 12, 2010

On this picture perfect day, we gave Rover a rest and hopped the Orange line of the “L” (elevated train) into downtown Chicago. 

Our original intention was to take the Chicago Trolley tour around the city but the Chicago Bears had other ideas for us.  As we strolled toward the museum campus to catch the trolley, a mass of humanity dressed in navy and orange were headed directly toward us.

We had unknowingly stumbled into the first of several waves of exodus from the season opener of the Chicago Bears and Detroit Lions.  We heard several critiques of how the Bears won by the hair of their chinny, chin, chin.  With transit buses consuming the museum campus, the trolley doesn’t go near there on game day and the chance of catching a cab to another trolley stop was less likely than being hit by a meteor.  So, we turned our attention to the magnificent views of the city and massive museums all around us.

We immersed ourselves in the Old Kingdom tomb of Unis-ankh at the Inside Ancient Egypt exhibit at the Field Museum.  It was a profound experience to be able to touch Egyptian carved stone that was 5,000 years old. 

We paid homage to our beloved, recently departed kitty, King Tut, at the shrine of Bastet, the Egyptian cat goddess. 

Sue--the largest, most complete, and best preserved Tyrannosaurus rex dinosaur fossil discovered so far--also made quite an impression.  The Field Museum is massive and we resolved to make this a primary destination the next time we travel to Chicago. 

We also managed to slip into the Shed Aquarium to visit the ethereal Beluga whales shortly before closing. 

Then, there was the “Man with a Fish” fountain—pretty spiffy. 

We caught the Shoreline Water Taxi from the museum campus across the harbor (Lake Michigan) to Navy Pier, marveling at the stunning Chicago skyline along the way.   

Navy Pier was such fun on a Sunday evening!  It was bustling with families and travelers.  We met some nice folks along the way, including members of the German band, Seaside Stars, who were shooting a promotional video.  They were asking for tongue-in-cheek quotes about the band from passers-by and we happily obliged.  A stop at the legendary Billy Goat Tavern provided refreshing beverages of Billy Goat Ale and Laura’s favorite, chardonnay.  Remember “Cheezborger! Cheezborger! No fries, cheaps!  No Pepsi, Coke!” from Saturday Night Live?  This is the place.

The Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows at the pier was quite a surprise.  We were expecting a few pretty specimens but were awed by the corridor after corridor of stunning examples of stained glass art ranging from Tiffany’s landscapes to religious icons to an homage to Michael Jordan. 

Next stop: the retro-marvel Shaw’s Crab House.  Ted’s jaw was on the floor in this 1930s reproduction blast-from-the-past bursting at the seams with period atmosphere, succulent seafood and hometown service.  We felt that we had traveled back in time as we sat in the Oyster Bar, listening to the 4-piece jazz ensemble BMR4 crank out some fantastic 30s swing.  We sampled everything: shrimp-adorned Bloody Mary’s, oyster shooters, a martini made with regional favorite Hum liquor (organic rum infused with fair-trade hibiscus, organic ginger, green cardamom, and kaffir lime), appetizer chasers of chilled crab, and unique house specialty sushi.  The salad loaded with seafood and the crab cakes were the savory icing-on-the-cake. Our bartender and waiter, Mauricio, was a doll (see photo below) and Maitre D', Louis, generously showed us around the restaurant and shared some interesting history. 

Well, we’d say that’s enough for one day!  We hopped the “L” back to our Pulaski stop and tumbled into bed for a well-earned rest. 
-- Laura