LASTEST TRICKS: Ancient Roots in Taos

Taos, New Mexico
Wednesday, October 27, 2010

This morning, Laura proposed the first major alteration in our itinerary since our decision to forgo visiting Michigan at the start of our trip.  She suggested that we stay in Taos an extra day, add an extra overnight somewhere between Taos and Oklahoma City, and make up the two days by forgoing Vicksburg.  This schedule change made great sense since it would give us more time in Taos, split up the 9-hour drive to Oklahoma City, and allow us to route through areas of Mississippi that were more in keeping with the themes of our trip in that state (namely, the blues and civil rights).  The important Civil War history of Vicksburg would be better suited to another trip.  Ted heartily endorsed the proposed change in itinerary and a small flurry of phone calls and online activity ensued.  Happily, our reservations were easily rescheduled and Plan B went into effect immediately! 

Our new itinerary secured, we set out to visit the Taos Pueblo.  On our way, we stopped at the Dragonfly Café and Bakery for some lunch and baked goods to go.  What a darling place!

The adobe hearth and warm yellows and reds beckoned us to stay, but we had our sights set on eating our lunch at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains amid the snow-capped peaks and late autumn splendor.  The bison burger and curried chicken salad were even more delicious when eaten roadside al fresco in such a spectacular setting!

After lunch, we entered Taos Pueblo--the only living Native American community designated both a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and a National Historic Landmark.

These adobe buildings have been continuously inhabited for over 1000 years. Here the People of the Red Willow maintain a way of life and faith that honors their past. 

The community has adapted over time to many outside influences--the Spanish Conquistadors, the Catholic Church, the United States Government, and Modern Society--yet it has continued to live and practice its traditions. 

We felt honored, privileged and humbled to be allowed into their village, dwellings and church, and deeply moved by the sometimes devastating, sometimes triumphant history of these courageous people. 

Our thanks to Winona for guiding us through the pueblo and to the many shopkeepers and villagers who warmly welcomed us to their home. It was an experience we will not soon forget.

From the pueblo, we drove out to the Rio Grande Gorge and Bridge to watch the sunset over the mountains. 

It was spectacular, and the phrase "purple mountains majesty" never seemed more appropriate. 

 

After running a few errands in town, we went to The Love Apple (la pomme d'amour) for dinner. And what a dinner it was! 

Not only was it the best meal we had enjoyed in New Mexico, but it was one of the best meals we had enjoyed anywhere!  The food (all locally sourced and organically produced wherever possible), the atmosphere (think gently aging adobe chapel), and the service (impeccable) all blended into a dining experience that was intensely romantic, deeply sensuous and fabulously delicious. 

The Love Apple is a destination unto itself.  Owner/Manager Jen, Chef Andrea Meyer, our waitress Marianne and everyone in the kitchen are a wonderful team that creates an experiential and culinary masterpiece.  We vowed to return tomorrow for a sequel.
-- Ted and Laura